Suede vs nubuck — what's the difference?
Both look velvety. Both feel soft. But they're made very differently — and knowing which you have changes how you care for them.
Read time: 3 min · Written by the Spotless team
Suede and nubuck are two of the most commonly confused materials in footwear — and for good reason. They look similar, feel similar, and need roughly the same care. But they come from completely different parts of the animal hide.
- From the inner split of the hide
- Softer, more open nap
- Slightly fluffy texture
- Thinner — less durable
- More susceptible to staining
- Found in: desert boots, casual shoes, accessories
- From the outer grain of the hide, sanded down
- Finer, tighter nap
- Velvety but more structured feel
- Thicker — more durable
- Still stains easily — needs protection
- Found in: hiking boots, dress shoes, smart casuals
How to tell them apart
Run your finger across the surface in one direction. Nubuck has a fine, tight nap that shifts slightly as you brush it — similar to velvet fabric. Suede has a softer, more open nap and a slightly more “fluffy” feel. Both look matte and feel smooth; neither has the shiny finish of full-grain smooth leather.
If you're unsure, check the inside of the shoe or the original box. Most manufacturers label the material. Veldskoen, Timberland boots, Merrell, and many Clarks styles use nubuck. Sebago, many chukka styles, and accessories often use suede.
Whether you have suede or nubuck, the care approach is identical — and the same products work on both. Use a suede-safe cleaner, a dedicated conditioner for open-fibre leathers, and a water repellent. Never use smooth leather cream or balm on either material.
How to care for suede and nubuck
Suede and nubuck have open, delicate fibres that clog permanently if you use the wrong products. The right routine keeps them looking fresh and extends their life significantly.
- 1Brush in one direction — always
Use a soft bristle brush on suede and nubuck. Always brush in one direction — never in circles. This keeps the nap even and prevents matting.
- 2Clean with a suede-safe cleaner
Dampen a soft brush, apply Shoe Cleaner, and work gently across the surface in one direction. Wipe with a damp cloth and allow to air dry fully.
- 3Condition with Suede & Nubuck Care
Once fully dry, apply Suede & Nubuck Care from 15cm away in light, even passes. Do not saturate. Allow to absorb, then gently brush to raise the nap.
- 4Protect with water repellent — always
Apply 2 light coats of The Resistor as the final step. Suede and nubuck are particularly vulnerable to water and staining — protection is essential, not optional.
Smooth leather cream, leather balm, Hide Clean & Feed, shoe polish, or any wax-based product will clog the open fibres and cause permanent damage. If you've applied the wrong product, stop immediately and contact us on WhatsApp for advice.
Common questions
Nubuck, because it comes from the outer grain — the strongest part of the hide. Suede is cut from the inner split, which is thinner and more delicate. For footwear that takes heavy wear, nubuck will last longer.
No — and if you have, stop immediately. Smooth leather products coat and clog the open nap of suede and nubuck, causing it to flatten and potentially stain permanently. Contact us at admin@spotless.cleaning and we'll advise on recovery options.
Often yes. Apply Suede & Nubuck Careand use a soft brush to gently raise the nap while it's drying. For severely matted suede, a suede eraser (rubber block) can help lift the nap before cleaning. Results depend on the cause — water damage and oil staining are harder to recover.
Yes — The Resistor is safe on all materials including suede, nubuck, smooth leather, canvas, and synthetics. Apply 2 light coats from 15–20cm and allow 12–24 hours to cure fully.